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Have some sort of dust collection and use it religiously. Well, here is the green light. Finally, it was alot easier than I thought to wire my garage with 220V circuit. So the moral of the story: High Quality Saw + High Quality Setup Tools + High Quality Blade + High Quality Rust Protection = Potential for High Quality Work.
Upon delivery, I had it loaded to my truck, drove it home, built a quick ramp, uncrated it but left it bolted on the pallet, pushed it off the truck bed to the ramp and down to my driveway. you cant decide between the P66 and the PM 2000. (My garage workshop is often a lot cleaner that the bedroom). And that was that. You only need a little spray of the stuff then rub it over the entire table top surface. I purchased a steel Veritas straight edge guaranteed to be straight and parallel within some ridiculous spec such as 0.001" and a feeler gauge set. All the results above are made even better with this blade. Measuring diagonally, perpendicular, and every other way I could, there was no denying it.
Also purchased a grizzly Magnetic Base/Dial Indicator Combo and a set of precision steel squares. These tools were used in combination to "square", "parallel", and make adjustments to the saw. DONT take shortcuts or you will disappoint yourself with your investment. Beautiful.Next came proper careful set up. I unbolted the table top and re-squared it.
Now I only say potential because the last factor in the equation is you. I just have it connected to a Shop Vac (connected to a 5 gallon homemade secondary large chip collector). Lastly, protect your investment and buy a can of Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubricant and use it regularly. it was perfectly square. It cuts and leaves beautifully jointed edges ready for glue up. Now since you are buying the best table saw, do yourself a favor and do what I did and buy the best blade, a Forrest Woodworker II. you have done your homework and B).
If you are considering purchasing this saw, then A). Then we unbolted it off the pallet, lowered it to the pavement, engaged the roller system and off it rolled into my garage. I have owned this saw for 6 months (at the time of this review). This tested flatness, and allowed proper flat installation of extension wing and plate insert. Just buy a good book that shows you how to do it. Now my lights don't flicker when using a table saw.
It is expensive stuff but after 6 months I still have more than half of my first can. I too followed this track and decided that the PM 2000 and its modern features would set the standard for the next 40 years much like the P66 did in 1966. This was 6 months ago and just last night while making a router table I cut the glued up table top MDF core surface to size and tested it for squareness. I always find that amazing. Next I stood the table top on its side and grabbed my precision steel straight edge and checked the edge cuts for straightness and it was beautiful as I could not see a gap at all.
I love the wheels that can be lowered to move it around my small shop. This is a beautiful saw and makes my old Delta Unisaw look like junk. It is very heavy but runs smooth and quiet. I would recommend this saw to anyone who wanted perfection. The cast iron extensions are flawless and fit very level to the saw.
The instructions were good and simple. I read some reviews and chose to spend the extra money on the PM2000 with the 30" fence. They recommended buying the Delta Hybrid saw. I was looking for a new table saw to replace a Bosch 4000 portable, which served its purpose at the time, but wasn't good enough for the type of woodworking I'm doing now. It took me 1/3 the time to assemble this saw over the delta, mostly because this saw took very little adjustment to get everything lined up correctly. The finish was much better and the quality of construction was also much better.
After getting it together, I had a problem where the left extension wouldn't level and was out of level by 1/16" of an inch to the outside. I thought about shimming it, but decided to wait. I think the Delta could be an ok saw with some time and effort and if I had the patience to wait out getting a new motor and arbor, but this Powermatic was terrific right out of the box. I plan on keeping this saw for the next 50 years, so whats an extra $1000 dollars anyway. Once I turned the saw on and there was no vibration at all and it ran smooth and cut smooth, I was very pleased with the change from the Delta. I just got this machine a few days ago, but am already very happy with it. For under $1000 it looked like a great saw, but then I got it home.The instructions for the Delta were ok, but it took me a long time to assemble the saw and I'm very mechanical.
Then I started to run the saw, there was terrible vibrations with or without the blade on. I wanted something that would last for a long time and was of good quality. The saw came together much easier and with no problems. I went to my local tool supplier and talked to them about the different saws. I called the retailer and decided to take it back. I would recommend this to anyone.Thanks Powermatic for making a great product. I got this saw home and started to unbox it and noticed the different right away.
Amazon was out of stock so I went thru Southern Tool on the internet. The precision is remarkable. The PM2000 just hummmmmmmmms. If you try this, BE MINDFUL that you do not run the straps near or over the casters. The next afternoon I installed the AccuFence.
CONS - Integral base. The tabletop is not as big, nor is the saw itself as heavy as the Gold machines. The electrical cord runs directly from a front mounted sealed switch box. I found the arbor collar to be so precisely machined that it was difficult to remove it from the arbor so I could install the saw blade.I spent a couple of hours putting the table extensions on. Precision is a state of mind. I bought the PM2000 w/ 30" AccuFence. The lack of availability for accessories for the PM2000 is a big problem: as of the end of September, expected delivery of dado inserts from Powermatic was quoted as "mid December".
With either, the "nickel test" is a predictable "No-brainer". During one rip cut I forgot to change the blade and took a long, precise ¼" slice off a piece of ¾" oak with the WWII blade. Mostly, I have been having great fun. It looks amateurish and shows little attention to detail.Would I buy the PM2000 again. It was time consuming but well spent, as it was possible to set them absolutely flat with the saw. It cries out for a dust collector attachment on a blade guard such as an Excaliber or Biesemeyer blade guard system. NO. I can't hear the saw over my dust collector.
The PM2000 has made woodworking fun. It's a Powermatic. The fence is INCREDIBLE. Obviously, I need to better prioritize my shop time. Since I got the PM2000 I have been spending hours and hours in the garage doing projects and building `stuff'.
It will absolutely suck the small pieces of wood and shavings down the shroud tube but there is an annoying amount of dust left on the tabletop and around the fence rails. You cannot exchange or upgrade with the green machine except to discard and buy after market. I rented an engine hoist from the local rental center for $14 and with nylon straps raised the saw a few millimeters off the pallet so I could pull it out from under the saw. I found it 100X more stressful than buying my truck or deciding on a "significant other". Dust collection: the dust shroud is useful but it is not that terrific with my 2 HP `Green' canister collector through a ten foot 4" collector hose.
Assuming that I used it correctly the dial indicator said that there was there was virtually no arbor run out (.002) and the miter slots and blade angles were nearly perfect. I wavered for nearly a week between the 66 and the PM2000. I wavered daily, sometimes hourly. The short list had a `green', a `gray' and two `gold' saws. I found a central place for the saw and that's where it has stayed.
This is a good machine with a good fence and made in America. It was disheartening to spend an afternoon with my old contractor saw creating firewood instead of woodworking projects. Once set up, locking down the fence at a precise measurement on the rail produces that exact cut. The saw makes 45 deg bevels and miters that are 45 degrees.
"Robert" from Southern Tool: if you are reading this, I apologize for not listening to your suggestion: I should have bought the 66. Based on other reviews that I had read, I had a Starrett 505A-12 protractor, a Veritas straight edge (get a 36" not the 24") and a magnetic base and dial indicator waiting for the saw. I ordered on a Friday and received a call the following Friday from the freight company to schedule the delivery on Monday. And then, on the day before I ordered my saw, I had a `kickback' on my Craftsman contractor saw. For an extra $125 residential delivery, Spokane Transfer put the saw in my garage and suggested that I remove the shipping carton and inspect the saw before signing the manifest.
I also had a spray can of degreaser, lots of paper towels and a tube of Lenox lubricating wax for the tabletop left over from my band saw purchase. There is nothing wrong with it, I have just NOT used it. I have two new saw blades: a WWII 40 blade and a Freud 80 ATB. There is only a few dollars difference between the two; the principle difference in cost is the mobile base that seems necessary for the 66. I would NOT have needed a mobile base for the 66, `Green', or `Gray'. He creates some incredible work pieces so obviously the `green' machines are capable.
insert even for a 3/8" blade. The saw comes with a 6-foot 220 volt electrical pigtail, no plug. Zero, Nawtha, NONE. PROS - Excellent locking repeatable precision fence systemVibration free, clean, straight cutsSaw is a heavy, well-made machineRiving knife Pride of ownership.
you cannot wire a longer cord directly to the machine, only to the pigtail. Imagine that.No fancy (or otherwise) customer satisfaction surveys to fill out fromeither Powermatic or Southern Tool. All the holes lined up except one on the end of the wood table extension. Tablet Insert: I bought a Freud box joint cutter blade set but can't use it. I started an order `cart' a dozen times.
There is still dust accumulation inside the saw. And maybe it needs a better blade guard or dust shroud.I am a beginning woodworker and only have half a garage for a shop so mobility is a MAJOR issue. The saw was drop shipped directly from Powermatic. Starting next week I am going to spend more time with my little dog. I need another (dado). The characteristics that pushed me toward the PM2000: the integral base and dust shroud have turned out to be unimportant or not as effective as I had hoped.
I USUALLY double check the measurement with a steel rule but it has always been right on except when changing from a 1/8" to a thin kerf blade. Notice that the end of the fence rail (right side) does not cover the end of the wood table insert (right side) which has a gap in the laminated cover. Perhaps a table insert made with some high tech honey combed composite would suck down more dust. When you know it is possible it is fun to achieve it. It is made in America, there are accessories readily available and MOST IMPORTANTLY it is also a POWERMATIC.
If Sears can offer a Biesemeyer fence then I suspect Green could too. Is that a good thing. In rereading the instructions thoroughly AGAIN before I called, I worked through the issue and have not yet tested the technical support response. However, there is ONE other CON to consider. The serial number is in 10k range and shows a June 2006 manufacture date. Hmmmmmm.
I took the entire summer to make my decision on which cabinet saw to buy. Going For the GOLD: During an exchange of emails inquiring about delivery charges, "Robert" at Southern Tool recommended the model 66. He works in the business and wrote that he could have any saw he wanted but chose the 66 for his own use. That brings us to the `gray' machine. I am NOT sending this back. Apparently, I have also been ignoring my `significant other', my lawn and my truck because they are all in need of maintenance. My old contractor saw SCREAMED at me.
Unless you break open the switch box (what does that do to the warranty). I had factored that into the cost of the 66 but it is also needed here. Ultimately, however, I passed over the `green' choice because of it's fence. The deciding factors for me then became the integral base and the riving knife on the PM2000. The `black' saw was just completely out of my price range. The table insert opening is too small. This is my saw for LIFE. While wishing I had bought a model 66, I am ABSOLUTELY and ECSTATICALLY happy with the PM2000.
The 5 HP upgrade and router table accessory were very positive points favoring the `green' choice. I visited a local woodworker that has a dream shop and uses `green' machines exclusively. Everything arrived in excellent condition.I did the entire setup by myself. I built Excel spreadsheets trying to help analyze the decision; hours reading manuals online, and I went to see or use every saw on my short list. I had one issue on the setup so I sent an email to the tech support people at Powermatic and received an immediate response requesting that I call them for support rather than exchange emails.
It was incredible, like resawing veneer with a band saw. Even my little Maltese thinks her dad has abandoned her. Where are the accessories for the PM2000.Wood table insert: See the picture of the PM2000 on page 85 of the October, 2006 Woodworker's Journal. That was a powerful recommendation. There is NO vibration.
Miter gauge is accurate and easy to readBevel gauge is also accurate and easy to read. I have since done the same thing with ¼" plywood.
That is definatly not the case with this powermatic. The height adjustment of the white plastic pieces on the fence is a breeze.adjusting the fence to be square is a little more work, but if you have access to an "align it" tool with a 1000th of an inch dial does make life easier. The dust collection is better than I have seen on other table saws, but you still have some material coming out in front of the blade. For the 52" fence model you would need to add wheels to the extension legs in order to make it more portable.
It would have been nice if the power cord was an extra 3' longer, maybe its due to the price of copper these days. When bolting the fence's square tube to the angle iron attach loosly all bolts in order to get them to line up properly. The saw's 3hp motor cuts 6/4 yellow birch like it was butter. The attached plugless power cord was replaced with a longer one. In the past, I rarely used a blade guard due to their poor performance and difficulty of removal and replacement. The module is attched to a steel plate with two bolts which are located inside the set screws. This is the smmothest cutting saw that I have ever used, even when used with more moderatly priced Freud blades. I called WMH Tool group and told tech svcs that the tube was 3 1/32" wide and the space inside the fence was 2 23/32".
My solution is to not tighten the two screws as much as you might normally and check monthly to see if it is loosening up. The particleboard extension table was bowed up about an 1/8" in the middle. The U.S. the module has 4 set screws that are not that easy to get at and will take patience to fine tune. My solution was to attach a small steel plate to particle board table extending under the steel extension wing, threading a hole in the plate under the wing allowed puting a bolt up thru to push up on the steel wing thus pushing the particle board table top down.
Despite some initial set up problems this is the finest tool in my shop from a company with outstanding ten star customer service. For my needs I can't see why I would need the 5hp motor that is available for this saw. Due to its 600lb mass there is no vibration to speak of.The miter gauge is very adjustable with every feature you could need already built in. The tech said that he hadn't heard of this problem before, but he sent an entire new fence out that I rcvd within three days. The 2nd fence had better internal cardbord packaging than the first but I am not sure that the bend could have been caused just in shiping. There was no damage to the paint near the bend, so maybe it occoured at the factory. Bolting the wings onto the table was a little tedious in getting the surfaces to match up evenly.
The milled edges of the table surfase and the extension wings had to be filed slightly to remove burrs that would have scratched any wood that would have passed over them. The biggeest delay in setting up was adjusting the module that the riving knife attaches into. The set up time took at least half of a day. If the two bolts are tightened to much it will bow in the module which doesn't allow for the easy removal of the riving knife. You should have plenty of space for a tool of this size as you don't want to have to move it around. The retractable wheel system works well.
The fence is rock solid. The align it showed the blade to be within 1/1000th" in square to the tables miter slot. made fence wouldn't fit over the square steel tube. The 3/16" thick steel on the end of the fence that the locking handel attaches to was bent in more than a quarter of an inch. The New fence works great and easily showed where the problem was with the first fence.
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