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After a year I still have saw dust everywhere with with a 1200 cfm Jet dust collector. However, I am frustrated with the plastic dust collector port under the saw blade. I love the saw, I have been a Jet owner for years and bought this saw after a fire. It disconnects each time I tilt the saw, not from the hose pulling away but the angle of the blade disconnects the plastic parts that came with the saw. Think twice if you want a clean shop. Since the motor sits lower on this saw, it is rather difficult to attach a false bottom to collect dust from the entire saw base.
I had the most trouble putting the stand together. Not that big of a deal since I've added the angle iron though.As for cutting, this thing is a dream. Luckily, I don't have to roll the saw far because it's pretty hard to roll. Not exactly sure what the deal is. I bought this saw a few months ago.after reading the reviews here.
Thank you.The manual is a little vague in places as mentioned. Once the saw is on it, that thing isn't going anywhere.My only negative about this saw, so far, are the wheels and brackets for them. They don't seem to give way but I do notice the metal of the legs bows somewhat. Especially if you are moving up from a smaller saw as I did. They were right on for both the pros and the cons.
As suggested, I beefed up the legs with angle iron. The fence is true as is the mitre guide.All in all, I'm very pleased and would recommend this saw highly. I think the brackets that hold the wheels need to be stronger.
Period. There is no better table saw then Powermatic. You can get a Lowes or Home Depot special at your local box store or you can spend the same money and get a Jet. I've own this saw for over five years now and have built everything from birdhouses to cabinets. Period.
It just works. Get the mobile base. I have the square fence and it works great. Just order an Incra 5000 miter guage and sled, and can't wait to put it to work.Jet is baby Powermatic.
This is a dangerous situation. Just folded under. Do not roll it on the casters, even though they are part of the leg design. KUDOs to the Jet people, my confidence has been restored.UPDATE 2: The leg issue forced me to build a table saw center that I've had designed for about two years (e.g. It does however, set and hold like a rock, so for just the rip aspects it's adequate.
If you are going to make a similar sawing center, watch for the hangy-down motor in your design and adjust your height calcualtions by plus 3 1/2". The leg is $14, but the shipping is over $19. Otherwise the saw is accurate, the table is level and substantial and easy to work with. when I am not using it, I roll the saw about two feet, no turns, over to the side of the shop so it will leave more room. I've done it many times. Most people upgrade the fence and miter bar on just about any tablesaw that I've seen, regardless of the brand. I was able to hold on to it and bring it up to balance. I just ordered a new left leg to replace the collapsed one rather than go through the process required to return it.
the cobbler's children have no shoes). I had a time trying to manuever this thing against something that would prop it up, eventually making it to the assembly table. Just try to get a jig to sit square on it. Plenty of power. If the leg is not capable of holding the weight while it's rolling, why put a caster on it. Jet has a great warranty, but you have to go through all the hoops in order to have them look at it.
Without a lot of detail, I took the saw off the factory stand and set it on the cabinet. Well, the LEG COLLAPSED below the lower brace. Here's the update - The saw's motor pokes out about 3 inches below the bottom of the saw. The tech guy told me a couple of things to look for and assured me that if the new leg attaches easily and is lined up, then the entire base is alligned and there is no danger. The factory stand is open and the motor doesn't sit on anything.
My design called for a solid top so the motor caused the saw to lean. Also, don't use anything less that 3 inch casters. Just be careful if you roll it.UPDATE: Jet had a customer rep and a technical services rep contact me first thing on Monday morning. They located my order and cancelled all costs and shipping, then expedited it out. Whoever decided to put a fence with a rounded top on this or any saw should be ashamed. Lose the fence and get a real one. Three days ago, I lifted the non-caster side up about one inch - enough to put the weight on the casters to roll. I've had this saw about 9 months and am satisfied with it.
The 207 pound saw almost went over and crashed on it side. Problem solved. Solution: I installed a 2x4 "skirt" for the saw to sit on, leaving about a 3 1/2" space below the saw to accommodate the motor while encasing the saw as well. I still am gun shy of rolling it, but a roller platform will eliminate that threat. But I have a major complaint and warning to owners of this saw. I can't say how long that would take. Since I own several Jet machines and have recommended Jet to everyone who's asked, I hope they will do something to smooth my feathers.When I finish repairing it, I'm going to build a rolling platform for it before I roll it anywhere. I wrote a letter to Jet, but they haven't replied yet.
Instead of using the 1/4" material, I used 1/8" and it is strong enough, and requires only flush bit router work to make fast blanks. Once I solved the insert problem and welded up a stand alone outfeed table with a transfer roller top, I was making precision firewood in no time. The 1/8' material is a viable replacement for the 1/8" mild steel stamped plate that comes with the table. The phenolic will drill and tap fine for the leveler set screws ( I used a Drill and Tap set from Greenlee to make the 10/32 holes in one single pass). I love my new little Jet, but I to found that they were proud of the dado insert ($44), and a zero tolerance was unheard of for this saw.
I to came upon the phenolic material idea, and it works great. A 24" x 24" sheet from McMaster Carr was enough to make three, with some material to spare. Allen socket screws are easy to find at local hardware stores. All in all I really love this saw. Being a retired aircraft mech.
I used the blade pass technique the other reviewer used to make both a zero and a dado insert. For the price, I think it's one smooth cutting deal. Just make sure that you have the blank secure to the table (I used the rip fence and it worked fine) and pass the blade through at a good but not too slow rate, to avoid burning the material.
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