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These blades are thin and light, but precise and surprisingly robust. There might be enough carbide in the tip for one re-sharpening, but it would not be cost effective. Highly recommended to the hobbyist and professional alike." If you need a finer finish, you might try the blades handcrafted in Clifton NJ, USA.Forrest CP07Q408100 Solid Surface Material 7-1/4-Inch 40 Tooth 5/8-Inch Arbor 3/32-Inch Kerf Table Saw Blade I have much the same to say about the 40-tooth version of this product as I do regarding the 24-tooth, viz, "From the price and the look one might think these are "throw-away" blades in the pejorative. I welcome ideas in the comments section for how to recycle these beauties.
But no, after many many cuts, a close examination under a 20x microscope shows almost no wear to the itty-bitty carbide tips. The thin kerf means less power is required to cut through a given board. This really matters in 5/4 plywood or hardwood decking, but means faster work everywhere else. They are only "throw-away" because they cost less than the price of sharpening them.
Left a smooth cut on 1 1/4" thk red oak stair treads. No burn marks as well.
The final cut is as smooth as you could want, and if you cut against a fence it will have table-saw trueness. For the price, I figured I was going to get a blade that cut OK but would bog down (not being sharp enough) or rattle (not being balanced enough). This blade does neither. If you use your circular saw on finishing wood, you need this blade. It's cut speed is commiserate with any good finishing blade, and it runs so quiet and smooth that I barely know when it's biting into the wood.
Fantastic blade. For ~$15 you can't go wrong on this- and it's not made in China.
It makes me cringe to think what might happen. You can do both adjustments roughly with a decent square, or you can get them "dead" perfect with a dial indicator. A quick dab of wax or a few strokes with the paraffin stick will quickly spread itself in about one-second into the first cut. You don't need to be perfectly even in the application of either. A trip to the emergency room costs time, money and pain.4- Cut Straight. I have used this blade and other Freud edge-tool products for decades and never experienced premature wear. Glue heats up and gets sticky FAST.
This is about one-tenth the cost of commercial products like "Final-Cut."For clean-straight cuts, you must be certain that your saw-blade is parallel to the cutting-guide and that it is at a perfect 90 degrees to the work. So just be aware, ANY BLADE from any manufacturer will wear faster in plywood.3- Lubrication. DeWalt, and Bosch saws have adjustments for that. Most saws do not. I get the best results with a dial indicator and the TS aligner.
or make your own. Their products are consistent and very well-made. Take your time and unplug the saw. This blade ( and other blades like it from Freud) have a slippery coating designed to reduce wear, but I have found that even these good blades work better and last longer with frequent lubrication. Lube both sides of the blade roughly equally to reduce warping, and don't forget to lube the teeth. The fact is all pros know the value of lubricating cutting tools, but most of us are not in that big of a hurry. Long rips and multiple rips make the blade hot anyway, and a hot blade melts glue faster than a cool blade. Rubbing alcohol is inexpensive and widely available at any pharmacy.
After reading several other reviews I thought this information would be helpful.Some users report short-life from this blade. There are several products marketed specifically for keeping blades clean. They work fine, but I have found that no product works better than rubbing alcohol. You just need to install an abrasive sheet ( sandpaper ) to the sides.
Using a straight-edge saw-guide is easier and works for novices and pros alike. Considering the low price, I consider them to be a great value too. I have seen some pros turn their saws upside down and hold a paraffin stick against the running blade. Once you make the first cut, the wax or paraffin will spread evenly everywhere and the excess will disappear.Again. Whenever I hear someone complain about their saw-blades getting dull too fast, I look at how they use the saw. You can buy the commercially made round sheets for this, (they ARE convenient). Setting the blade perpendicular to the work can be adjusted similarly by shimming the base-plate. I cut mine from cheap 180 grit aluminum-oxide sheets, using a compass and an X-acto knife, then attach them with 3M super 77 spray adhesive.
A cheap straight edge can be quickly made ( in about ten minutes ) from ANY board with a straight factory-cut edge and a piece of scrap plywood. This 40-tooth model makes smooth cuts, especially when you use the tips presented here. Even if you have a cheap saw, you can make the blade run parallel to the cutting-guide by shimming the edges with UHMW tape. "pitch" --- that gummy residue from wood--- increases friction and heat. Here's how you can get cleaner, safer, smoother cuts and MUCH more life from this or any other good blade.1- Keep it clean. You can minimize friction with a light coat of paste-wax or paraffin. That may be true under certain circumstances, but it usually isn't the blade's fault.
please UNPLUG THE SAW when you lubricate the blade. Free-hand cutting is a skill that requires concentration and practice to achieve good technique. I will assume anyone reading this is careful enough to UNPLUG THE SAW before cleaning the blade or making any other adjustment.2- Material considerations. IF you want joinery-quality cuts from this blade, you can get them. Cutting plywood is tough on any blade because plywood has multiple layers of glue. Wandering cuts cause excess friction, heat and wear. You do NOT need an expensive saw-guide, although many of them work well.
The problem is most-often the user, not the blade.
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