|
I tried this a few times, and was fairly disappointed - it cut easily enough, but scratched the surrounding surface badly. In other words, you could use this saw for an occasional dovetail, but again, it's definitely not "ideal".The third descriptor in Amazon's title is "detail" saw. The vast majority of saw cuts made when creating a dovetail are effectively rip cuts, which means you're cutting along or parallel to the grain of the wood. Finally an accurate description of an appropriate use for this saw. Some set is important to prevent the saw plate from binding in deeper cuts, but it means that the teeth will scratch the surrounding surface if it's used as a flush cut saw). This Shark saw has teeth shaped for CROSSCUTS (perpendicular to the wood grain), so it's optimized for slicing through wood fibers in this orientation. The teeth are truly flush with the saw plate, which means they won't scratch your workpiece when you flush cut a dowel or plug. Nicer saws are available for these general small crosscutting tasks, but this is about as good as it gets for the price.In summary: If this had been called a "Detail/fine crosscut saw", I would have given it a much higher rating.
However, it's NOT a flush cutting or dovetail saw, and shouldn't be advertised as such. the teeth aren't bent out from the saw plate. I initially bought this saw because it's advertised as being able to cut dowels or plugs flush with a surrounding surface. I eventually bought a true flush cut saw from a popular Canadian woodworking/gardening retailer, and was amazed at how much difference that made. Not so on this Shark saw - the teeth do have set and will scratch your workpiece if used for flush cutting.
It does a fine job with small crosscuts and general trimming tasks, and leaves a fairly smooth surface. It will still make rip cuts, but these cuts will be slower and potentially harder to control than they would be with a rip-specific saw. After more research, I learned that a true flush-cut saw does not have any "set" on the teeth (i.e. Some significant time spent with a sharpening stone could theoretically remove this set, but the impulse-hardened teeth would make this more difficult, and it would be hard (for me at least) to justify that time and trouble when ready-to-use flush cut saws are available for only a few dollars more.Second, this saw is advertised as "Ideal for dovetails." While it may be strictly FUNCTIONAL for dovetails, it's far from ideal. If you're looking for good saws for these specific tasks, look elsewhere.
This type of cut is fastest and most efficient when done using a saw with rip style teeth.
Wish I could combine the two.I'll keep this tool, for a few jobs it's been perfect, but not as broadly useful as I'd hoped. But you'll want something else for cuts the are mostly in rip direction. Blade binds and is a bit too flexible for some tasks,but great for others. Still looking for that perfect single saw forcedar strip boat building Stanley makes a better set blade, with a useless tang and handle.
This is really a great utility saw that I use chiefly for sawing out door jams when I do flooring work. It easily fits into a work bag and you won't be disappointed.
For making dovetail cuts, you need to have teeth for ripping, since you're cutting parallel to the grain. one of the double-edged pull-saw, one edge for ripping, and the other edge for cross-cutting. However, the kerf is nice and thin.For cutting dovetails, I recommend a pull-saw with a more aggressive blade and with rip-teeth. The teeth on this product are for cross-cutting. And the teeth are not aggressive enough for letting the saw do the work. I bought a double edged Bear Saw from Lowes, and it's much more effective, and produces a straighter cut.It's fine for smaller applications like cutting dowels, because the teeth are made for cross-cutting, and perhaps cutting small architectural models, but for dovetailing, you need a more aggressive pull-saw with rip-pattern teeth. I am cutting on the pull stroke and letting the blade do the work, but it does take a very long time to produce a cut.
easy to use (after a short learning curve).These saws: 1. 2. Don't try to "muscle" them through a board. These saws are: 1. Don't place the blade edge anywhere you don't want a mark left. allow you to do precision cutting.And: they are very, very sharp (keep bandages with them - even though you've been warned - you'll have to find out for yourself). I want to have each type (and have probably bought more than I have a need for). You will have to make a new miter box because these blades are too thin for any you have.
are very sharp; 6. Use the blade guards that come with them. 3. This is a comfortable saw for those little jobs.
Don't pitch them in your toolbox or truck bed. affordable; 3. Shark 10-2204 Dowel/Dovetail/Detail Saw - and anything else you want to cut. cut a thin kerf; 5. I have moved ALL of my other hand saws to the back of the shop. The old adage of "let the tool do the work" has never been truer.
These are precision tools and though they are quite strong, they are easily damaged. sharp; 2. These are a joy to use. I think I mentioned that they're very, very, very sharp.(Since I don't know which review you might see first, I have left the same general review for each of these I own and added any specific thoughts for the individual saws). Some tips: 1.
|
May be eligible for FREE Shipping offer
