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Feeser. Every last thing in the place is a disaster that needs attention. Problem. That was yesterday. Another problem, I don't have the money to buy all new windows. Lots of work. So thank you R. Today I am still freaking excited.
So while trying to repair a window I broke a pane and replaced the sash with an piece of an old door. After reading that review, I got so excited about building my own windows I just about wet myself. So in my research on how to build a sash, I came across some instructions, and router bit sets. Needles to say I found the set, and read the review that R. My sashes are so entirely screwed that I originally assumed that I would have to eventualy buy all new windows. So I just bought a house in NE DC that I am renovating.
All of the windows are non standard sizes. It looks great from the street. If I wasn't so cheap, and didn't allways use the supersaver shipping, I'd be rushing home to start pumping out window sashes. Feeser wrote. So I am focusing on the building envelope, a part of which are the windows. About one step above plywood on the scale of ghetto to fabulous (do not confuse with the "ghetto fabulous" scale, it measures something completley different).
Your review was so freaking awesome I wan't to wet my pants all over again. I got the 13 piece Freud set a few weeks ago, so came back to check out if Amazon had a sash set by freud.
I am leaning toward the single glass, and then doubling that on the inside with a removable storm panel, and tripling it with an exterior storm window. With your own wood windows, you eliminate that. It is expensive, but worth every dime. Not about how to buy them, but about how to build them. Each sash is the standard 1 3/8" thick, and has true divided light (French door style sash bars, and mullions) All done by using these two bits. They eliminated all hand holding, and went into mechanical-arithmetic formulas for getting the job done. I made my first window sash and am ecstatic over how professional it looks. (That is a popular Pella design) What is significantly different is with typical "insulated glass" windows, you have a vinyl shell, which conducts cold instead of insulating, and then passes that cold through the aluminum wedge that is sealed between the glass, which also transmits cold readily, on through to the inner glass, which is cold on the outer areas, and only warm on the inside center.
Then I discovered the CMT USA bit manufacturing instructions that are available at the CMTUSA.com web site under "How To" It is a lot more intuitive, whereas they give you step by step instructions. Combining the insulating properties of solid wood, with the natural weather resistance of mahogany, and you have a combination that is hard to beat. They are 9/16" on both sides, with 1/4" tongue area in the center. The local largest window showroom has suggested that I carry a sample of the Mahogany creations in their showroom. In that book the author states that using vinyl jamb liners with built in springs are preferred, and will save you a lot of time.
That and a little weather-strip and you're set. This bit set also makes twin sashes for your standard double hungs. This Freud bit set, which is similar to the CMT in every way, except one. That makes for a lot of adjustment in doing the different stages. I bought a book here at Amazon called Windows and Skylights, and it went into a lot about making different style windows. Anyhow, get the Freud bit set, turn out your first sash, and get excited about the possibilities. Consequently the major window testing association, using a rating system that measures both the center of the glass on the inside, and the outside edges, and averages them.
I'm honored, and plan on doing that once I am confident in my own houses creations. What I am actually going to do, is buy Honduras Mahogany, and make beautiful windows. These bits are not cheap, but if you plan on building lots of windows, and may possibly need to build more than one set, their strong carbide, and balanced, no vibration cut, will give you the quality you are looking for. It is nice to not have to sand the edges at all, or at least not very much, when they are as highly figured as these edges are. This Freud bit combination is making my intentions realizable.
My woodworking buying of equipment went into overdrive when I went into my local home center and saw how expensive it would be to replace the windows in my house. The thing about the CMT set is they are based on 5/8" of an inch spacing on one side, and 1/2" on the other. This Freud 99-051 and 050 work as a set to give you complete sash making capabilities. You could make a casement sash with these bits, and simply build a frame to mount it in, and include the necessary configuring to allow for handles and opening mechanisms. I coated my Cedar Addition with it five years ago and it looks as new right now as it did when I first applied it. In addition to Mahogany's natural wear properties (Decks are built from it without any finish put on it whatsoever) You have to look into Sikkens line of semi clear finishes.
Once you see what the truth is about the lack of true insulation properties of the common vinyl window, you will all the more want solid wood windows. I must admit the instructions that come with the Freud bits leaves you a little dizzy. Highly recommended book, listing suppliers of hardware, and the ins and outs of insulation properties of different styles. I could go on for hours, but this is supposed to be a review of the Freud bits, and it is. I am looking for a good supplier of high quality solid polished brass for the locks and hardware.
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