|
I am fully satisfied with the quality and performance of the Freud 75-106 3/8-Inch Diameter 2-Flute Up Spiral Router Bit with 1/2-Inch Shank. I am also pleased that the product was delivered on time.
Be careful and take your time when using solid carbide because they tend to break if you cut to much on a pass. It cuts very clean. I purchased it primarily for Mortising loose tenons on my furniture work. I am using it to cut 1" deep 3/8" wide tenon stock recesses using a 5/8" template guide and patterns that I make from 3/8 plywood. I have not had a 1/2" shank break on me but 1/4" shanks have broken on me before. I use a plunge router using the steps to cut about 1/4" each pass and it works great.
You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine.
That is what a spiral bit does. When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. So they shouldn't last as long. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key.
Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well. Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table. This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits.
Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
I used this Spiral bit ONE time ran one cut on mohogony and the bit was having a hard time cutting, and thats Mohogony which is very soft wood. Warning this is bit is not recommended. Ran a second pattern cut about 12" in to it I heard a clunk and the router started to vibrate like mad, turned out the bit actually broke off and projected towards my feet.
I just used this bit cut over 50 mortises for a table and it worked great. If you're using this bit to cut deep mortises for mortise and tenon joints, make sure you make several passes with your router or it will start screeching and might burn the bit. The mortises had flat bottoms and sides and virtually no chip-out. I also didn't have any problems with the shank size so maybe Freud fixed the problems that the other reviewer had.
|
May be eligible for FREE Shipping offer
