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I rarely change the blades in my table saw and leave the 60 tooth plywood blade in, however, when I have to rip alot of lumber this is my blade. I have never had a tooth chip or miss carbide as some have mentioned. It provides a nice smooth cut at a nice pace.
The sole purpous of this blade for me is when cutting joints on the TS. It has flat square teeth so I get a flat bottom on my joints, ie Tenon sides, lap joints.
swapping-in a dado for small jobs. lots of Cherry and plywood. For the ~1 year I have had the blade it has cut solid and smooth. The tooth shape is flat - good for rabbits - saves time vs. This is a substantial blade - perfect for stationary cabinet saws.
I retired the blade this week.I have a home shop and am remodeling, building cabinets, drawers, doors, shed, deck, framing. The kerf is 1/8". Adjust blade-height to within a tooth-height above the top of the wood to minimize tear out. I also now have Freud blades on my miter and radial-arm saw -- Smooth glue-line cuts. After burnt cherry, and plywood tear-out from other carbide blades, I installed this Freud blade.
I bought this blade to rip white oak and it cut very well at first. Not very impressed. After a couple hundred feet it slowed down so I took it to my sharpener and he couldn't sharpen it because of all the chipped teeth. None of the teeth were missing, but al of them had chunks of carbide broken out.
Not the blades fault. It really moved a lot of wood and didn't even seem to dull to quickly when we got into the finish and grime on the edges. This blade performed admireably cutting through 1.25" hard maple gym floor that I am trying to recycle. However when it met a nail it slowed down our feed rate. Operator error and I have since bought another of the same blade to add to the arsenal and have been very pleased with it's performance. Upon taking the blade off and having it sharpened we lost one tooth and dulled the rest.
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