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I started using them on 8'x 7" cherry boards. I purchased 2 2packs and the four clamps were great on the shorter boards. I then switched to 5' x 5" cherry and the ease of operation and quaility of the finished edge increased significantly. The EZ Jointer Clamps are simple to use once you find a straight board and make the rabbet. The setup was extremely awkward and unstable at first, but after a few passes, it become almost comfortable yet still somewhat unstable. If working with boards longer than 6'I would recommend purchasing three 2packs. The cut edge wasn't perfect, but close enough to hug the fence to cut the other edge.
This is a handy device to have. Let's you use wood you would otherwise have to scrap.
2 clamps will be good up to about 4 feet. It seems to me that if used properly, it can be very effective.I have pictures of glued up panels to prove it.The main purpose of the clamps are to remove crooks from the lumber. (i.e up to 5 feet, 3 clamps). The technique I use is the make an initial pass.
That should give you stock that should be adequat for glue-up.Some additional tips, invest in a good saw blade (Freud Diablo), this will help minimize vibration and give a nice cut. Always cut you stock over size and then trim it to fit.The clamps are not as good as an actual jointer and require a bit more work, but it is cheaper. Lastly, flipped the board over and rip the first side again. I am writing this review in response to the negative reviews. Longer stock will require more than 2 clamps. Additonal clamps should be used about every foot after that (my estimation. Check the guide board periodically to make sure it is straight and true.
Infact, I have used these in conjuction with my bench top jointer. The second function is to put a "straight" edge on the board.To achieve either of the objectives, one must use a true straight edge as the guide board. This means you would need to get another set. And a little more advice, if you are looking to get a bench top jointer, go the extra $200 dollars and get yourself a bigger one (6" x 47") if you have the space. Then remove the board from the clamps, place the side you just ripped against the fence and rip again.
Not only that, but if you're doing a board, say, six feet long, then as you slide this along, the bottom of the clamp comes off your saw and then the piece sits flat. I tried it once and threw it in the trash (after smashing it with a hammer since it screwed up my cherry). And even if you do that, it's still not lying flat. The board you're straight lining can not be held flat on the saw. Holy cow, what a piece of garbage.
What a piece of garbage. One of the previous reviewers explained it perfectly. This causes the cut NOT to be true. Luckily, I took my cherry back to my wood store and they straight lined it for me so I didn't lose any. You would need to put a clamp every 15" inches or so down the length of your board to keep it consistant.
The big problem with this that the straight edge does not reliably lie flat because the bottom of these clamp things surround the straightedge. The second problem is that the second clamp will catch on the edge of your table saw as you feed it through unless you are really careful - again, a bad cut or binding and kickback.I'm chucking mine before I get hurt and am going to build a simple jig with surface mounted toggle clamps. This causes two things to happen. One, if you are jointing wide boards, the jig can rock, which can cause either a bad cut, or worse, binding and kickback.
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