|
After a brief fling with PU glues I'm back to wood glues for wood.One thing - DON'T LET IT FREEZE. It will last for years if kept cool and dark but it will be toast if it freezes. There are other brands of wood glue (Elmers, etc) which are close, but the small difference in price is nothing compared to the cost of the wood or the hours I put into a project. You never know when something will get wet. Patio furniture. I really like PU (PolyUrethane = Gorilla) Glues for certain jobs even though they can be messy, but for gluing wood to wood, you simply can't beat Titebond II or IIIFine Woodworking Magazine #192 showed that aliphatic wood glues are almost TWICE as strong as PU glue.
I've been a woodworker for about 30 years. Interestingly enough, common yellow glue is as strong as this stuff is, but I'm willing to spend a bit more for the water resistance. II is fine.It also cleans up nicely with water. then you will want III. Titebond II or III are the best of these in my opinion. Titebond III is almost twice as expensive but you don't gain a whole lot except longer work time.
Don't ask me how I know this.If you have found this review helpful, please let me know. Technically Titebond III is waterproof while Titebond II is water resistant, so if you're making something that will be submerged in water regularly (wooden deck on the back of a boat).
I have been using this glue for just over a year now for assorted carpentry projects and I love it. It has a quick set time which can either be a great thing or a horrible thing, depending on what is being gluing. I once tried to break a bond made with this glue, the wood broke before the bond did.
This is the best wood glue we've ever tried. It sticks well, and stands up to hard use.
to prevent chalking of the glue and undesirable results. TiteBond II is not for large glue-ups, but anything that takes less than 15 minutes or less at 70 degrees F to clamp and clean will be fine. All the joints I have prepared and glued with TiteBond have never come apart. This is a fast setting glue that will allow you to unclamp and get back to non-stress finish work on the work piece quickly. I prefer TiteBond II's light color for light colored woods and TiteBond III for darker woods.
It does require temps of the work piece and air to be at least 60 degrees F. TiteBond III will work down to 45 degrees F, so if you have a cold work shop and/or large glue jobs, TiteBond III would be better suited. I have had no problems with cleanup of "squeezeouts", using a wet rag and immediately wiping off excess after clamping. A little light sanding after drying serves to finish the joints nicely.
Though I have used polyurethane glues and epoxy (I have yet to try the new Titebond III), this Titebond II is the glue I turn to 99% of the time. After sanding I have had no problems with splotchiness in finishes.I made the mistake of buying too much of this glue at once a few years ago and learned the lesson that it will go bad over time. I have had good luck with letting it dry and scraping the squeeze-out away with a sharp chisel and/or a flexible putty knife. I have been buying this glue in this exact quantity for years now and I am here to say that it is an absolutely great performer. It has never let me down in any application - I build mainly indoor furniture and jigs. Now I always buy this glue in these bottles and never have problems.Highly recommended. Once cured, the strength of this glue is consistently stronger than the wood around it.
|
